A Travellerspoint blog


Ulaan Baatar and the plains and deserts of Central Mongolia


As our China multi-entry visas limit us to 30 days for each stay, we decided that a side trip to Mongolia would be a great experience - for the real thing as opposed to repeating my unimpressive Inner Mongolia visit of 1997...Although some of them may seem too perfect to be true, all the photos below are definitely authentic and were not taken from tourist brochures or photo-shopped! Mongolia's natural environments require no enhancement to capture the beauty of the landscapes.

However, there were a few hurdles to cross before we were able to enjoy the Mongolian plains:
- It took two attempts to lodge our visa application at the Embassy in Beijing - the first day the window closed at 11am on the dot with 20 odd people still waiting outside and after serving only about 5 people...the next day we were very early, they opened about 15 mins late, but this time we just made it to the window in time to submit our applications. Picking up was the same thing in reverse and we only just made it in time to collect our passports within the one hour opening time from 4-5pm and there were no doubt several people who missed their trains because they couldn't pick up their passports...it literally took 5-7mins for the officer to check the receipt against the passport, write down the visa number in a record book and then return the visa and passport to the person - in an hour that means only 10-12 people are able to pick up their visas each day!!!
- Within 50m of the Ulaan Baatar train station, we noticed someone trailing very closely behind us and Tara suddenly turned around to see a man trying to unstrap our tent from the back of my backpack!! He wasn't quite prepared for the many different straps holding the tent on though and especially after Tara saw him, he beat a hasty retreat!!

Our hostel obviously didn't want anyone to get the wrong impression about the city...

After UB however, everything became much more pleasant (though bumpy) as we headed out into the plains with a pair of Belgium guys from Antwerp we split the cost of our 9 day Central Mongolian tour with (one of whom has a claim to fame having appeared in the World’s Most Shocking Videos – search “naked man bull-fighting” in youtube to see what we mean – and somewhat amazingly, he’s not the only one!).

Ogii Nuur

Our first stop was this small lake after about 7hrs of driving and (apart from the insect infestation) was a nice half-way break on the way to our main destination, the much bigger White Lake. Earlier, on the way here we stopped to walk around an ovoo (a Mongolian prayer mound formed by piling rocks on top of each other), where we followed the tradition of picking up a rock and after walking around the mound 3 times (in a clockwise direction), adding a rock to the pile. We also saw this old guy seemingly heading off into the middle of nowhere and wondered when he would get wherever he was going...

At the lake, there was a small hill which we climbed for the sunset view - Tara also found some time for meditation amongst the ovoos at the top (and happily without any bugs around)!


To give you an idea of what we dealt with here, look at the amount of bugs arond these guys. Tara was naturally disgusted and walked around most of the afternoon with only her eyes sticking out from under her jacket hood - the bugs hovered around in big groups and just waving your hands in front of your face would squash several...not so nice! Another aspect of this showed up in the welcome drink of fermented horse milk (Tara's first time), which inevitably contained many of these bugs floating in it - given it would be impolite to refuse the drink, perhaps mercifully we couldn't see exactly how many were actually in there...But you could feel them going down!

Mongolian gers - our accommodation for the next 10 days. And our food for the next ten days was carrots, potato, mutton, with either rice or noodles...the staple food of the nomads. No matter how it was prepared, it always tasted the same.

Our trusty "Russian-quality" van...perfectly matched against the "Mongolian-quality" roads!


White Lake Ger
After another solid full day of driving, we arrived at the beautiful White Lake and our base for the next 4 days, although we didn't stay in this ger for long, embarking on a 3 day horse-trek around the lake the next day. Thankfully no more nasty bugs.

Although a bruising trip of another kind, this was the highlight of our trip here and we saw some amazing scenery. While all of us struggled with our comfort level in the saddle for approx 7hrs/day, one of our Belgian friends, Marijan, having never ridden a horse before, had the most ground to make up. He originally didn't plan to join us, but after a night of wild vodka drinking with our driver, woke up with a big change of heart...probably to be his first and last ever horse trek of this kind!!

After arriving at our second night's camping spot sore and exhausted, we were lucky to only just have enough time to get our tents up before the heavens unleashed a massive storm on us, but when we emerged from our shelters, we were rewarded by this magnificent rainbow stretching across the horizon and the first time any of us had seen one this big completely from one end to the other.


Our final stop before finishing our 3 day trek was to see this massive extinct volcanic crater - more impressive in person, but here we are (and it was probably a good 100m down to the bottom)!


In some parts of southern and central Mongolia, it was possible to see the solar eclipse (although our photo appears to show the opposite, this is the sun being covered by the moon) of July this year at about 40% coverage, and we were fortunate to be able to sneak a glimpse of it through the clouds - somewhat ironically, although we could have tried to capture the full eclipse further south in China, the skies would no doubt have been affected by pollution, while out in the middle of Mongolia with virtually zero pollution, we woke up to cloudy skies!!


We'll let Tara do the talking here, but this was very welcome relief after 5 days without a shower...gross!!

Our next stop was at the Orkhon Khurkhree Waterfall, at an altitude well-over 2,000m, where we spent 2 nights. Our timing was once again great and after dropping our bags and invited into the family's ger for some yak milk tea, our driver said we needed to hurry and drink fast to make it to the annual Yak Festival which we had no idea was happening and couldn't believe our luck as this happened to be another highlight of our Mongolian trip. When we arrived, we were just in time to see the end of a yak race and driving beside 20 yaks being ridden against each other at full speed was incredible. At this point we didn't even know people could sit on a yak, let alone race one! But oh, was there more. Next up was a yak herding competition (with lassos), bareback riding rodeo style, and to top it all off there was a mini yak polo tournament with rudimentary mallets hacked from tree branches. But all the competitions were carried out in good spirit and all the spectators were having a great laugh - especially the chaos of trying to find the ball amongst all the yak feet in the polo! As it was a major event with Mongolians travelling from all over, there was also a television crew around interviewing the victors and a small market.


One of our most genuine experiences on this trip was our first night here which we spent in the family ger (normally we were put up in a separate tourist ger) and since everyone seemed to be in a celebratory mood (but given what we have seen on this trip, perhaps that's normal), it turned into an interesting night as the vodka consumption climbed...First, when we were getting ready for bed, there was a young boy left sleeping on one of the beds we thought we were given, but didn't know what to do about the boy or sleep on the floor. Finally, someone must have remembered the child and rescued him from us about 30mins later (to our relief)! Then, in the middle of the night, the man of the house stumbled into the ger and tried pouring himself and a friend a bowl of horse milk (I guess less alcoholic than vodka) but only succeeded in pouring it all over Stefan's backpack and the floor, which didn't combine well with the other smells of yak cheese, milk, butter, yoghurt etc in every corner of the ger (convenient for midnight snacks)! In his drunken state he also somehow noticed our poor attempt to close the roof of the ger (it was freezing at this altitude) and worried about burning the ger down, quickly pulled the cover back which was close, but not touching (we knew that much), the chimney of the stove...it was a cold night for us!


Stefan thought some horse milk might be a good nightcap after all...it wasn't!


We also had an opportunity to try our hand at milking the family’s yaks, but I guess it takes years of experience as I wasn’t able to coax one drop out – Tara was a bit more successful with the woman’s touch!

Our last stop before returning to UB was in a short section of desert, dubbed the "Mini-Gobi". On the way, our driver “suggested” that Stefan might want to help him test the depth of the water – unfortunately, for Stefan, but fortunately for us the water wasn’t so deep but the mud was…we made it safely across thanks to our Russian quality van!5DSC_0458.jpgDSC_0470.jpgDSC07259.jpg

We had time for a quick horse-ride in the afternoon with this Mongolian cowboy who sang songs to us and was very keen to pose for photos - he made a great subject (perhaps brought on by the fact that he was practically drunk on fermented horse milk and several times appeared to be close to slipping off his horse)!

Although a somewhat crazy angle, our guide perhaps does his best work after a few drinks - quite an artsy shot we thought, even if unintentional!

We had a few days back in UB before heading back into China, which we used largely to relax and enjoy having access to showers and more variety than potatoes, carrot and mutton!

Posted by HT 06:37 Archived in Mongolia Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

China Part 3 - The Capital

Culture and history in Beijing and around Beijing

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The last time I was in Beijing was a work trip last year, during which of course, I had no opportunity to see the city as we were cooped up in our client's offices for 3 days! Before that, the last time in Beijing was in early 2003, so I was very interested to see what had changed...as it happens, a lot!!

Another of my fellow Australian Young "Scullers" in China from '97, Tom Hands, and his wife Ivy, kindly put us up in their new digs for our time here. Beijing was also a great base to launch some side trips to the coastal cities of Beidaihe and Shanhaiguan.

The new and very cool looking CCTV's HQ in Beijing's Chaoyang District, standing in stark contrast to all that remains of the once new Mandarin Hotel, which fell victim to an illegal fireworks display by CCTV workers and no-one seems in a hurry to clear up the mess while they work out who's responsible!

Is this really Sanlitun?? A far cry from the 1997 version and the street market is a thing of the past!DSC06866.jpg

Revisiting one of my favourite Beijing sights, Yonghegong Lama Temple, now considerably more tourist-packed...

I guess the literacy rate in China is actually lower than the government is claiming...!

Coffee...perhaps the translators simply gave up trying here! The third one is the culprit - "Wu Yin" could be literally translated (without regard to giving a meaning in English) as "Without Because", but of course refers to "Decaf" coffee - the other two are simply Colombia and Blue Mountain Coffee...or maybe they were just very impressed with their efforts in deciphering "Wu Yin"!


This was the long favoured resort of choice for Chinese Communist Party leaders, but now seems to have been replaced in this role by the Bangchuidao Beach Resort in Dalian we visited earlier in our trip. Nevertheless, it was still a a fairly nice stretch of beach and with massage service available on the sand, Tara made the most of it!

Chinese classic poses...!

Shanhai Guan ("Mountain Sea Pass"):

This was a beautiful section of the Great Wall, which is famous for being the first point where the Great Wall meets the sea and closed off the narrow stretch of lowland between the Bohai Gulf and inland mountain range.

These old paintings of the Shanhai Guan Fort and Fortified City illustrate how this site was named for its position between the sea and mountains.


We were fortunate to arrive at another nearby section of the Great Wall at Jiumenkou (the only section of the great wall built over a river) just in time for filming of a pretty big battle scene in a Chinese TV serial. Hopefully we weren't the cause, but you will see that some of the extras (all drafted from the local army corps) couldn't hold back smiles as they charged towards us (to the chagrin of the directors!)...


As this was obviously a busy tourist spot, there was some delicate timing required to avoid capturing a camera-touting tourist in the background! One of the techniques they used was to obscure tourists (not patient enough to wait for the cut-scenes!) climbing the wall in the background with smoke - when we arrived, the smoke reflected a fairly lazy burnt out fire drifting up from the parapets but as more tourists arrived and the director became more desperate to shoot the scene, the smoke became blacker and thicker and we left just as it was getting pretty toxic down there for the poor extras running back and forth through it! Also note the sorry attempt at the warriors running for an attack in the back...


Tough to stay in character all the time in the boiling sun!


We couldn't resist...at least they are trying!!

These shots show some of the fortifications around the Shanhai Guan City, which provided an excellent perspective of the city and surrounds - presumably back when it was built, the soldiers did not have to contend with the pollution which now pretty much completely obscures the view of the wall extending east-west from the sea to the mountains. In this city, they have many hotels in the traditional "Si He Yuan" style (rooms looking into a center courtyard), and we stayed in one right near the main fort which was very charming.


The Bell and Drum Tower in the middle of the city makes an impressive sight in the evening


Back in Beijing

Here are a few photos from the 798 Art District in Beijing, which is a massive collection of warehouses and cafes needing at least a full day to explore the displays of art, pottery, photos and sculptures anywhere near comprehensively!

We also wandered through one of the refurbished "hutong" areas in Central Beijing, which is now an interesting (and busy!) collection of restaurants, shops and guesthouses very popular with tourists and locals alike, though in the busiest section perhaps not in the true tradition and feel of the original hutongs.


I desperately tried to convince Andrew to give me a karate kick in front of the forbidden city (for the sake of photography of course) just as this man did in what appears to be from the 70s or 80's-a photo I took in a photo shop. But he was worried about drawing too much attention I guess...just as Wang Lao Shi (my chinese teacher) made us do by singing the Chinese national anthem in the Tianan men square in 1997 during our high school trip.

Next stop Ulaan Baatar!

Posted by HT 23:19 Archived in China Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

China Part 2 - Dongbei (The Northeast)

Qingdao, Yantai, Dalian, Dandong and Changbai Shan

sunny 30 °C
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Part 2 of our China trip continued up the eastern coast towards the North Korean border, ending at the Everlasting White Mountain (Changbai Shan) which straddled the China and North Korean border.

Our first stop however, was Qingdao, home to the 2008 Olympic sailing events and the beer capital of China, which inherited a German built modern beer brewery of the famous Tsingtao Beer brand. It is also home to Lao Shan Beer, which is also one of my favourite (but far lesser known) China beers. On our first morning wandering the streets, we came across this old Catholic Church, which is now a very popular place for the locals to get their wedding photos done (there were about 6 groups lining up for their photos all over the square!). Note the sexy black leggings with lace and tennis shoes under her dress.

Ah yes, the beaches in China...just like Bondi except no one is wearing a swimsuit! From what we could tell, the main attraction of the beach here was the opportunity to collect seaweed, small pipis and baby crabs from the rockpools... DSC_0037.jpg

The now simply named "Granite Castle" was originally built by a Russian prince (if I remember correctly) and must have been quite a sight 100 or so years ago occupying a commanding position right on the beach!

While here, we also visited nearby Lao Shan (Lao Mountain), which had some nice mountain walks and a beautiful and very inviting reservoir at the end of our hike down (though no swimming was allowed...)

We found this cool little old town area, which was full of great restaurants on one of the main streets in Qingdao and ate a few great meals here.

Why not turn a bus into a restaurant?

And last but definately not least, of course, there was the beer! The Qingdao Beer Brewery was on "Beer Street" (naturally!), which was an area packed with restaurants.

Have you ever heard of Green Beer? We were told it was made with seaweed, which gives it the green color, and Tara found it quite refreshing! (Seems there is plenty of experimentation in China with beer these days - I have also seen lemon flavoured beer and a non-alcoholic drink with an advertising slogan something like, "Is it Beer? Is it Tea?"!)

And if you don't have time to stop for a beer...No problem, just take some away in this plastic bag...! All the rage here in Qingdao, draft beer straight from the keg into a plastic bag...

Hotpot in Yantai, a dreary port city with not much to recommend itself to, where we spent one day while waiting for our boat across the Bohai Bay to Dalian. The weather was also very unpredictable - the morning was blazing hot and clear but by mid-afternoon the skies turned black within 30mins and we were caught out in a massive downpour while walking the beach!


After another overnight boat trip, we arrived in Dalian. This city was previously a major trade port for the West into China and therefore has many impressive examples of early 20th century architecture. Today, the expat population appears to be dominated by Russians as well as countries with strong shipping industries such as Norway. It is also one of the nicest cities in China we have visited, with wide, tree-lined streets, beautiful beaches, clear and clean water as well as somewhat clearer skies.


This is Bangchuidao Beach, where China's elite spend their holidays and includes accommodation and a golf course. Unfortunately, the water and beach area was not as inviting as the more popular Fujiazhuang Beach we visited the next day due to the masses of people fishing from the shore! 

Compared to Qingdao, there was also a much stronger beach culture here - although there were some interesting exceptions with some funny balaclava type headwear (presumably to avoid a dreaded tan) and others snacking on seaweed pulled from the ocean!! I also finally managed to get my long-awaited swim here and found the water beautifully refreshing on a very hot day and clean!



Moving north by bus from Dalian (where we could have easily spent another few days at least but have to keep moving or we'll never finish this trip!), we arrived at the border town of Dandong, where it is possible to launch a visit into North Korea (although Tara didn't dare get too close due to the few known Americans getting snatched up from across the border and sent to labour camps), which was separated by a narrow river probably only 100-200m wide.

What would China be without a statue of Mao in every city!!

Is China showing off to the Koreans on the other bank which seemed to be suffering from a blackout compared to the bright lights and buildings on the Chinese shoreline...?

The glow on the otherside of the bridge is a train coming across the border...DSC_0030.jpg

This restored section of the Great Wall, Tiger Mountain Great Wall, was built in the Ming Dynasty and previously extended into what is now North Korea. When we thought we couldn't come closer to North Korea, we jumped on a boat here that took us along a narrow stream separating China and North Korea where at the closest point, Yibukua ("One Step Across"), we could practically reach out and touch North Korean soil. Again, Tara stayed on the far side of the boat...:)


Looking out onto North Korea...


Sometimes, it isn't necessary to provide a description (and get it completely wrong!)...

"The Museum to Commerate US Aggression" - a tribute to China's resistance and victory against the US in the Korean War! Even though the Chinese have a very warped theory of what happened in the war and no mention of any other countries involved, tourists still like to take photos with Tara, the foreigner from America. This happens everyday, and the numbers are climbing fast. In addtion to people asking to have a photo with Tara, she also has a special following of "paparazzi" that follows her around trying to sneak a few photos. 9DSC_0184.jpg

Changbai Shan (Everlasting White Mountain)

A popular destination for Koreans, this is also a beautiful mountain area straddling the China-North Korean border. Not only can you pay 5 dollars to stick your feet in this hot spring water, but you can also buy eggs boiled in the spring water (and some sort of hot dog-the red things floating in the water)...the eggs and the feet are in separate pools thankfully!


The finale and highlight of our visit was ascending 2,500m to the top of the mountain, where there is this massive lake (Tianchi or Heavenly Lake). We were very fortunate that the cloudy skies cleared for us and we were able to enjoy the beautiful reflections given by the pristine waters in the former volcanic crater. In fact, the reflection was so clear that it was somewhat disconcerting looking down and seeing the clouds which should be above us! We heard later that many people visit the Tianchi and are disappointed by the frequent rain and clouds which can completely obscure the view, often for several days at a time.

However, it was not quite as tranquil as our photos suggest when shared with several hundred Chinese tourists (see video)!!

Posted by HT 06:54 Archived in China Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

China Part 1

Mountains Galore - Huang Shan, Mogan Shan, and Putuo Shan and a bit of fun in Shanghai

rain 14 °C
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Armed with the latest edition of the Lonely Planet (coincidentally released the day before we left), we began our journey in China with a bang! We climbed 3 mountains in the first two weeks of our time in China, I went by far the longest so far without showering...5 days (and that was during our 2 day mountain climbing with our backpacks!). And we met two lovely women from Beijing, Cindy and Melody, on our first day in Huangshan and then spent the next two days with them, so had pretty much total immersion in Chinese for our first 3 days in China.

This guy was getting a little exercise outside the train station in Huangshan. Very impressive and helps pass the time I guess.

Emerald Green Valley - where they apparently filmed the bamboo fighting scenes in Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon (though we discovered there are several places in China apparently with that particular claim to fame...!).

Huang Shan (Yellow Mountain)!! We spent two days climing up and down these mountains, which was a lot of fun. Thankfully this came at the beginning of our China trip when we were fresh from our break in Hong Kong because it involved some serious hiking! However, the reward was one of China's most beautiful and pristine (apart from the ubiquitous paved paths) natural environments, full of unique rock formations and mountains, which were often enhanced by the rapid changes of weather and clouds flowing in and out of the peaks. We made our way on the first day out to the Western Sea area, which involved a 6 hour hike first down and then up and out of a large canyon. It was incredible and somewhat disconcerting to walk along the stone paths which were somehow attached to sheer rockfaces with 100m+ drops! We also had our first night camping of the trip. We were told that the only permitted camping spot was a cement basketball court, which didn't seem in the spirit of things to us...so after it was getting dark, we ventured a ways up the mountain to find a flat bit of ground in the forest - although still next to a path, it was much better than a basketball court! And unfortunately for this reason, we were awoken at 4:00am by the hordes passing by on their way to view the sunrise while commenting (loudly) in Chinese about our tent and how cold it must have been to sleep there (it was quite chilly)!


Shanghai - of course it was a must visit place on our itinerary to go back to our old stomping grounds and visit friends who still live there. We had a very relaxing time, and even walked by Plaza 66, where we met at the gym...unfortunately the gym is gone, but we're still going strong!! It was also great catching up with Dinny and Lei and enjoying their hospitality in their new apartment which is directly across the road from where Andrew used to live in Shanghai.

Mogan Shan! Our second mountain. This began as a retreat for the European expats living in Shanghai to escape the brutal summer humidity of Shanghai, and it was definitely cooler and drier than Shanghai, but still hot nevertheless! Getting there also proved a challenge for us as we jumped into a 3-wheeler taxi which agreed to take us to the top of the mountain, but upon arriving at the base suddenly started making excuses and said his car wasn't allowed to go up...After the inevitable argument over how much we should now pay him, we ended up getting out and attempting to walk up leaving our driver with about half the original fare and cursing bitterly because the mountain top was just around the corner a few minutes away. Of course, he was lying! We started hiking up and soon discovered it was far far further and after about 30 mins of tough climbing in the dark we managed to hitch a ride with a Chinese guy for the 15 minute (and at least 1.5hr hike up the steep road!) drive to the top! One good thing that came out of it though was that the driver was able to get us in without paying the exorbitant entrance fee of RMB80 (US$12) each. We then had another 30min walk to get to the part of the mountain we wanted to stay in, but were very relieved to finally eat our lunch/dinner at 10pm and crash into a hotel room. After that, we had a much better time of it, finding the secluded naked retreat resort the next morning (though this also took about 1.5 hrs of hiking all over the mountain with all our luggage and directions like "find a gap in the guard-rail with some initials carved in it" which we never found because they were so small!). From here we went on a beautiful walk through the surrounding bamboo forests and tea plantations as well as enjoying the peaceful surroundings where we had some well-earned rest and ate some great food (including sampling the local very fresh bamboo shoots!).

The third mountain: Putuo Shan. it is actually a Buddhist island off the coast of Ningbo, but they have a mountain as well that we climbed up of course! This has obviously also been designated as a special tourist destination - everywhere, paved roads/paths were again ubiquitous and the entrance fee of RMB160 (US$25) each very high for China - perhaps necessary to maintain the hundreds of speakers disguised (poorly) as rocks all over the island repeating the same chants over and over?! As foreigners though, we were certainly doing something relatively unique as we only saw a handful of western tourists during our 2 days here.

Of course, some very interesting reading on some of the signs around here...including the "old Chinese saying: "The overturned cart ahead is a warning to those behind"." and "Dear visitors, don't be too brave to show your courage, or you may have a lifelong regret"! DSC_0128.jpg7DSC_0140.jpg1DSC_0144.jpg3DSC_0152.jpg5DSC_0223.jpg

We also had our second night of camping here - right on the beach, which was fantastic to sleep to the sound of the ocean. DSC06488.jpg
This old man was mesmerised as we packed up our tent into the small bag (especially the poles which collapsed into 30cm lengths) in the morning! Earlier we were woken about 6am by the sound of one of our zippers opening and closing and then on the other side of our tent the zipper was suddenly pulled wide open and a Chinese man stuck his head in saying loudly, "Ah, shuijiao le!" ("Oh, you're sleeping!")...not anymore though! Wary of drawing too big a crowd we decided it was probably time to start packing it up. 8DSC_0229.jpgDSC_0251.jpgDSC_0315.jpg

Although dorm style, our transport between Shanghai and Putuo Shan was reasonably comfortable in these bunks which were simple but clean - unfortunately, it was really only the toilets that as usual are what lets it down...(we spared you and us from any photos of this though!)

And finally a quick lunch with Del, my old boss back in Shanghai before we caught a plane back to Hong Kong to meet my client.

Posted by HT 20:05 Archived in China Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Singapore and Hong Kong

Visiting friends in Singapore and a quick pit stop in Hong Kong

sunny 33 °C
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Singapore was mainly about catching up with friends. We had a great time with Angelica and Jeff, who are getting ready for their first baby boy later this year. After the northern hemisphere winter, it was a bit of a shock to be back in the heat and humidity of Singapore, but we still made the most of our couple of days, dropping by the Botanical Gardens, drinks at Clarke Quay with dinners at dapaidongs and the Yacht Club - even squeezing in a gym workout! We also had a pleasant surprise catching up with our Shanghai friend, Molly Padgett, who was coincidentally living in the same complex as Angelica and Jeff.

Back in HK we were hosted by Katie and Murray while we sorted out the final stage of our round the world odessey - China, Mongolia and Nepal. This also meant lots of time with their dog, Brandy, running her up and down the Peak until she wore me out!



This completes our round the world trip ticket. Below is a map of all the places we visited in the last 4 months.

Posted by HT 03:17 Archived in Singapore Tagged backpacking Comments (1)

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